Emilee Prado
Colleyville’s Trio New American offers dynamic dishes to diners interested in seeing how different cuisines play together on the plate. Owner and executive chef Jason Harper continues that initiative in Fort Worth with his latest project. Kunsei Smokehouse, a Tex-Asian food trailer, started making pop-up appearances at different breweries in July. It’s grown a following, both locally and across the Metroplex, thanks to the innovative integration of ingredients into Southern favorites.
“It’s very familiar Texas barbecue with really unique Asian flavors,” Jason explains. “I mean I love barbecue. If you are a Texan, you have to love barbecue.”
Kunsei, which means smoke in Japanese, leans on barbecue techniques to enhance Asian ingredients in comfort food mains and sides. Customers will find those classic go-to dishes like brisket, mac ’n’ cheese and creamed corn, but they will be served with bright, bold Asian components like miso and kimchi.
“I honestly can’t say I’ve found Texan smokiness to clash with anything,” Jason says, “People don’t think about these flavors going well together, but then they taste it and say, ‘It’s a match made in heaven.’”
Jason has played with various ingredient combinations during his 10 years at Trio, but he says he has continuously been inspired to learn more about Asian cuisines — from Japanese and Chinese to Vietnamese and Thai.
“That’s really where my passion lies,” Jason says. “I have been tumbling down that rabbit hole for years.”
Kunsei was a hit during its launch service at Rar & Sons Brewing Company last July and continued the service in August at Martin House Brewing Company’s beer launch. Locals can find Kunsei next at HopFusion Ale Works on September 4.
Jason hopes to open a brick-and-mortar Kunsei in Fort Worth eventually, but until then, he wants to introduce the concept to locals while also continuing to play with flavor fusions. So if you already love Trio and want to see a new side of Jason, be sure to swing by Kunsei Smokehouse. You may be able to say you knew Jason way back when after Kunsei Smokehouse becomes a notable eatery in the Metroplex.