Local Name Takes The Reins In The Big City
Jason Harper Developing Heat At Fort Worth’s Toro Toro.
Emilee Prado
After beloved Colleyville executive chef Jason Harper announced he was closing his restaurant TRIO New American after 10 years, he hinted exciting news would follow. His next announcement delivered on that promise. Jason is now leading the charge at the first Toro Toro Pan-Latin Steakhouse in Texas as the location’s chef de cuisine.
While Toro Toro has 35 locations from Denver to Dubai, this Lone Star State venture offered a distinct opportunity for Jason. By working with a culinary giant like Richard Sandoval, Jason was given the chance to customize the Pan-Latin concept to match the feel of not only Fort Worth but also Texas.
“Richard loves to give each one of his chefs freedom to put their own spin on that city’s mindset,” Jason says. “That was probably the most enticing thing.”
After opening in The Worthington Hotel in Sundance Square last month, it’s safe to say Toro Toro has added heat to the Metroplex’s dining community — partially because of its unique offerings and stunning techniques.
Jason says Toro Toro gets its distinction with its fire. As soon as guests walk in the restaurant, they will not only see Toro Toro’s dishes but also immediately smell what’s cooking thanks to the centrally positioned grill. With the hotel’s precisely placed ventilation, Jason and the Toro Toro team can create an intimate grilling experience, which helps guests engage with the food before it’s served.
After being enticed by the intoxicating aromas, guests should make their way to the wrap-around bar to enjoy one of the hand-muddled Latin cocktails. After taking in the space and the ambiance, a quick glance at the menu proves there isn’t one way to build out your meal — but that’s part of the fun.
As a top-notch Texas steakhouse, there are plenty of impressive cuts like 44 Farms filet mignon and 52 oz. Tomahawk ribeye on the wood-burning grill. But small plates featuring Central and South American specialties promise an array of bold flavors and textures.
“Toro Toro Fort Worth will be a destination fueled with Latin fire and passion that also embraces the city’s cowboy legacy, historic architecture, dynamic arts and entertainment scene, and toasts its champions of industry,” Richard says via press release. “I love Fort Worth’s pioneer spirit.”
Those familiar with Toro Toro will see menu staples like smoked swordfish and chicharróns gracing the appetizer options. But new starters like the Niman Ranch pork belly skewers elevated with a bourbon-tangerine barbecue sauce and creamed corn bring Texas’ southern flavors to the forefront.
Jason believes that is part of Toro Toro’s charm — that guests can experiment as they embrace the sharing experience that comes with dining out.
“When you are excited about food, that’s what you want,” Jason explains. “You want to try about as many things as you can before you get full.”
The Chipotle Char Siu Pork Ribs and Tamarind Glazed Smoked Brisket are ideal introductions to the essence of Latin-style Texas barbecue. But even those who keep a safe space between themselves and red meat can find plenty to get excited about, like the Chilean sea bass served with Japanese rice, toasted pecan, dashi, white miso, Peruvian yellow pepper and shiitake mushroom.
While those ingredients may not sound compatible at first, those who are familiar with Jason’s creations know his passion to mix flavors to create transformative dishes. That, on top of Jason’s desire to join the Fort Worth food community, made Toro Toro a move that Jason couldn’t pass up.
“It feels like coming full circle and completion for me,” Jason says.
Whether you come out for the sizzling steaks or the array of small plates, each Toro Toro trip promises to not only captivate your taste buds but also your experimental spirit.
Emilee Prado